When iconic trends from the past return, to me, there is almost an air of parody (this is the connection with kitsch) - it's not quite the same as the first time around and the resurrected trend has a cultural past and inescapable associations. Something has to be done to take fashion history and make it fashion forward. Or is retro fashion a law unto itself? There is definitely a cerebral involvement beyond sheer aesthetic anyway. It takes a similar kind of involvement to decipher another of fashion's curiosities; kitsch. An undeniable element of street fashion, especially in the noughties, has been the counter-intuitive, the garish, the mismatched and the downright tasteless - precisely the anti-fashionable. And it doesn't seem to be just about going against the grain, or giving fashion the finger either - there is a different sensibility at work here.
I've recently become interested in the Antwerp Six. Theirs is an inspiring tale of a band of Belgian fashion design graduates renting a truck and storming London fashion week '88. Of the six, Walter Van Bierendonck is the most interesting to me. He's still going strong and his designs are something else;
Walter Van Beirendonck - Fall/Winter 10/11
What is this? More importantly, what is it doing on a runway? (I hope this isn't the RTW collection.) Is it stylish on a level not immediately comprehensible? Nope, not stylish at all? Is it primarily a social commentary? This could be a visual study of bad taste with the human body as a canvas, but Walter Van Beirendonck is a selling brand. Incidentally, the word Walter, or just the letter 'W'. crops up prominently (and garishly) on many of his designs; a parody of branding, itself? The above image may be bordering on conceptual art but we've all seen something closer to this on the street;
This look is interesting and multilayered but also works on a face-value level. Its a cultural jigsaw puzzle, mixing elements from pop culture, forms and lines from past eras and an off-kilter colour scheme to create something that's original in its own right. The parts are recycled but the whole is fresh and directional. It looks good. Fashion may be subjective, but if an aesthetic is swathed in layers of irony, parody, and social comment yet doesn't look good, the whole thing becomes an intellectual pursuit and runway shows a kind of performance art.
kitsch
(kĭch)
n.
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